South Korea: Seoul, Busan and Jeju Island — Where to Go and What to Try

Seoul: palaces and modern neighbourhoods

Start Seoul with Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukchon Hanok Village, with its traditional hanok houses. Then come the bustling streets of Myeongdong, full of cosmetics and street food, Hongdae with its musicians and cafés, and a stroll along the banks of the Han River. In the evening, the tower on Namsan Mountain gives you a view of the whole city.

Busan: the sea, markets and a temple on the rocks

Busan is the country's second-largest city and a major seaport. Here you'll find Haeundae Beach, the colourful Gamcheon Culture Village on a hillside, the huge Jagalchi Fish Market and Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, which stands right on the rocks by the sea.

Gyeongju: the ancient capital

Gyeongju was once the capital of the Silla kingdom, and it's known as an open-air museum. Here you'll find the burial mounds of ancient rulers, Bulguksa Temple and the stone Buddha in Seokguram Grotto, and in the evening the pond and its pavilions beside the old palace are beautifully lit.

Jeju: a volcanic island

Jeju is an island of volcanic origin in the south of the country. Here you'll find Hallasan Mountain, the Seongsan Ilchulbong crater, where people gather to greet the sunrise, lava caves, waterfalls and tangerine groves. For centuries, the local women divers, the haenyeo, have gathered seafood without scuba gear.

What to try

Korean cuisine is vibrant, spicy and very varied.

• Kimchi — fermented cabbage with chilli, served with almost every dish.
• Korean barbecue — meat grilled right at your table.
• Bibimbap — rice with vegetables, an egg and a spicy paste.
• Tteokbokki — rice cakes in a spicy sauce, a favourite street food.
• Korean fried chicken — crispy, in a sweet or spicy sauce.
• Fresh seafood at the markets of Busan and Jeju.

Good to know before you go

Korea is a traveller-friendly country, and a few simple tips will help you feel at ease.

• Tipping isn't customary here — neither in restaurants nor in taxis.
• The metro has seats for elderly and pregnant passengers — it's customary to leave them free.
• There aren't many bins on the streets, so you'll often have to take your rubbish with you.
• You can pay by card almost everywhere, even for small purchases.
• In spring and autumn popular places get crowded — it's best to book accommodation and trains in advance.

Staying connected

In Korea you need the internet from the very first minutes: to plan a metro route, open a translator, find a restaurant, or show your hotel booking. You can install your eSIM at home over Wi-Fi, so after landing you won't have to hunt for a SIM card at the airport or stand in queues. When a plan's validity begins is shown on the checkout page before you pay: for some plans it starts at the first connection in the destination country, for others on installation or right after purchase. Your main number stays in your phone, and calls and messages to it keep arriving as usual, under your carrier's terms.