UAE: Dubai, Abu Dhabi and the desert — the surprises of the Emirates

Dubai: a city of records and old neighbourhoods

Dubai is famous for its skyscrapers, and the greatest of them all is the Burj Khalifa: from its observation deck the city, the desert and the Gulf are laid out at your feet. In the evenings the singing fountains dance at the foot of the tower, and right next door is a vast mall where you could happily spend a whole day. The man-made islands of Palm Jumeirah, the Dubai Marina waterfront and the beaches of Jumeirah are packed with memorable experiences too.

But Dubai has an old soul as well. In the Al Fahidi district, houses with wind towers still stand — this is how homes were once kept cool. Cross Dubai Creek on an abra, a traditional wooden boat, and soak up the atmosphere of the gold souk and the spice souk.

Abu Dhabi: the capital, the mosque and culture

The country's capital is calmer than Dubai but no less impressive. The snow-white Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is one of the most beautiful in the world: marble, gold, enormous chandeliers and reflections in the pools. It is open to visitors at set hours, and covered clothing is required to enter.

On Saadiyat Island stands the Louvre Abu Dhabi with its famous "rain of light" dome, while Yas Island is home to theme parks and a racing circuit. In the evening, a stroll along the Corniche is a real pleasure.

The desert and nature

A trip into the desert is an essential part of getting to know the Emirates. It usually means a drive through the dunes in an off-road vehicle, the sunset, dinner at a camp and a sky full of stars. For those who want peace and quiet, there are desert hotels and gentler options without the extreme driving.

And if you're craving mountains, head to the emirate of Ras Al Khaimah: it is home to the country's highest point, mountain roads and viewpoints. The emirate of Fujairah, on the Indian Ocean coast, is ideal for a relaxed beach break and snorkelling.

What to try

Emirati cuisine is a blend of Arab, Indian and Persian traditions.

• Arabic coffee with cardamom and dates — a symbol of hospitality.
• Shawarma and falafel — quick, filling and delicious.
• Machboos — fragrant spiced rice with meat or fish.
• Luqaimat — sweet little dumplings drizzled with date syrup.
• Lebanese, Indian and Pakistani dishes — cooked superbly here.

Good to know before you go

The Emirates is a welcoming and very safe country, but it has its own rules.

• In mosques and shopping malls, clothing that covers the shoulders and knees is appropriate.
• Friday is the main day of rest, and some places change their hours on that day.
• Summers are very hot: save walks for the evening, and during the day choose museums, malls and shaded beaches.
• Taxis are convenient and inexpensive, and Dubai has a metro.
• Respect local customs: public displays of affection are frowned upon.

Staying connected

In the Emirates everything runs through your smartphone: calling a taxi, paying for parking, showing an e-ticket, finding the right entrance in a giant mall. You can install the eSIM at home over Wi-Fi before you fly — then you won't have to hunt for a SIM card at the airport after landing. When a plan's validity begins is shown on the checkout page before payment: for some plans it starts at the first connection in the destination country, for others on installation or right after purchase. Your main number stays on your phone and keeps receiving calls and messages under your carrier's terms.